Portovenere is a pearl nestled in the western tip of the Gulf of La Spezia, bathed by the splendid blue Ligurian Sea, deep and rich with life. Framing this extraordinary village are many beaches with transparent waters where you can relax in tranquility, and the three magnificent islands of the archipelago – Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto – which peek out.
The village is very reminiscent of the Cinque Terre towns with its traditional tower-houses (the Palazzata a mare), narrow alleyways (carruggi), fishing port, and wonderful medieval churches. At first glance, the pastel-colored buildings of the ancient village appear like all other typical houses of the Ligurian Riviera. However, in Portovenere, they have a unique feature: these houses are literally suspended from the rock, built half at the seafront level and half anchored to the rock. It’s a sort of barrier between the village streets and the sea.
Portovenere was already famous in antiquity for its extraordinary beauty. Petrarch himself celebrated it, and in times much closer to us, among the many artists fascinated by the place, Montale also dedicated a poem to Portovenere. Legend has it that where the church of San Pietro now stands, there was once a temple dedicated to the beautiful goddess Venus Erycina, who was born from the foam of the Ligurian Sea waves breaking on the rocks.
It’s a maritime village full of history, with roots dating back to ancient Rome. It began as a fishing village in very ancient times. Since the first century, due to its exposed position, it suffered invasions from Lombards, Normans, and Saracens. From medieval times, Portovenere’s destiny was linked to the great Republic of Genoa, especially during the long war between Pisa and Genoa. During this period, the fortified village was built as we see it today: the city walls and the village gate, the Doria Castle, the Church of San Lorenzo, Arpaia Cave – Byron, the Church of San Pietro, and the Palazzata of tower-houses facing the sea.
During subsequent centuries, Portovenere fell under French and Aragonese rule. With the perfection of long-range firearms, the village’s military decline began as it lost its “invulnerability” due to its perched position, which was defendable from attacks until they came from the open sea. In 1791, with Napoleon’s arrival in the Gulf of La Spezia, the New Ligurian Republic was proclaimed, during which another period of abuse began with the occupation of Portovenere by French and Austro-Russian militias who heavily damaged the two churches, which were later restored at the end of the 19th century.
Since 1997, Portovenere and the islands of Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto, along with the Cinque Terre, have been a UNESCO World Heritage site. The village gate is the entrance to the historic center. Along its alleyway and steep stairs, there are shops and small restaurants where you can taste some typical Ligurian products, including fried anchovies in paper cones, focaccia, and pesto.
In Portovenere, you can visit, besides the ancient village, two beautiful churches, San Lorenzo and San Pietro. From the latter, you can admire a breathtaking panorama towards the open sea. Don’t forget the Doria Castle that dominates the village and the famous Lord Byron Cave dedicated to the English poet.
Staying at Downtown Blue Apartment, you can easily reach Portovenere in just fifteen minutes by bus and visit one of the most beautiful places in the world.